Everything You Need to Know About Old-Cut Diamonds And Why They’re Back in Trend

The woman sitting across from me at Hatton Garden last month was holding a modern diamond ring featuring a brilliant-cut stone worth £8,000, yet she couldn’t stop staring at a rose-cut solitaire ring that cost half as much. “It looks like it has secrets,” she said, turning the antique-style gem in the light. Set temporarily in a simple rose gold tray for viewing, the stone seemed warmer, softer and almost alive. She wasn’t wrong, there’s something mysteriously captivating about antique cut diamonds that makes today’s modern diamonds seem almost sterile by comparison.

The Forgotten Art of Diamond Cutting

Before machines took over diamond cutting in the early 20th century, craftsmen worked by candlelight, shaping stones entirely by hand and eye. These old European cuts, rose cuts, cushion cuts, early emerald cut designs, and step cut variations weren’t trying to maximise brilliance through mathematical precision, they were designed to flicker and dance in the warm glow of gas lamps and candles, often paired with yellow gold or white gold settings that enhanced their glow.

The result? Diamond ring designs with character. Lots of it.

Modern brilliant cuts, introduced around 1919, revolutionised the industry by maximising light return through their 57 precisely angled facets. But something was lost in that mathematical perfection. Antique cut diamonds tend to have larger facets, higher crowns, and smaller tables, creating a completely different personality, one that whispers rather than shouts.

Yet here’s where it gets interesting: lab grown diamond technology has made these historical cuts accessible again without the ethical baggage of antique mining practices, allowing modern diamonds to replicate truly old-world aesthetics.

What Is an Old Cut Diamond?

An old cut diamond is a diamond cut using historical techniques that prioritise character, warmth, and soft light over maximum brilliance.

Unlike modern precision-cut diamonds, old cut diamonds were shaped by hand and eye, resulting in larger facets, higher crowns, and a glow that feels romantic rather than flashy.

What Makes Old Cuts Different (And Why That Matters)

Walk into any high-street jeweller and you’ll see rows of diamond Ring styles that all look remarkably similar. Same proportions, same sparkle pattern, same everything. Old cuts and especially antique engagement rings, break that monotony entirely.

Rose cut diamonds are popular from the Victorian era through the late 1800s, have no pavilion at all, they’re flat on the bottom with a domed top covered in triangular facets. The effect is subtle, almost glowing rather than sparkling, especially when mounted in white gold, which amplifies their warmth rather than overpowering it. Old European cuts feature a small table, high crown, and an open culet. Cushion cuts combine rounded corners with larger facets for a softer, more romantic appearance, while step cut influences seen clearly in the emerald cut, prioritise clean lines and a refined diamond shape over intense sparkle.

But there’s a practical consideration most people overlook: antique cut diamonds actually hide inclusions better than modern brilliant cuts. Those larger facets and different light patterns including the broader flashes seen in emerald cut and step cut stone rings can camouflage characteristics that would be obvious in a brilliant cut, potentially allowing you to choose a lower clarity grade without sacrificing beauty.

The trade-off? Old cut diamonds typically appear smaller than brilliant cuts of the same carat weight, and they don’t have that intense fire and brilliance that Instagram loves so much.

What is the difference between brilliant cut and old cut diamonds?

The difference between brilliant cut and old cut diamonds is how they handle light and how they feel visually.

Brilliant cuts are engineered for maximum sparkle and precision, while old cut diamonds prioritise warmth, character, and a softer glow.

Why the difference matters

Brilliant cut diamonds

• Designed using precise mathematical formulas
  

• Many small, symmetrical facets
  

• Maximum brilliance and fire
  

• Perform best under bright lighting
  

• Easy to compare and widely available
  

Old cut diamonds

• Hand-cut using historical techniques
  

• Larger facets with higher crowns
  

• Often feature an open culet
  

• Softer, slower light movement
  

• Create a warm, candle-like glow

Old European Cut Diamond Vs Old Mine Cut Diamonds

The Lab Grown Advantage for Historical Styles

Creating antique cut diamonds from mined stones means destroying heirloom jewellery or accepting whatever nature provided centuries ago. Lab grown old cuts flip this equation entirely, you can specify an old European cut or emerald cut in a perfect D colour and VS1 clarity, something that would cost astronomical sums (if it exists at all) in mined diamonds.

This technological advantage has created an unexpected renaissance. Young couples are increasingly drawn to the romance of historical cuts but want the ethical clarity of lab grown stones, often choosing to pair them with white gold or rose gold for a softer, contemporary-vintage balance. It’s Victorian aesthetics meets 21st-century values.

And the pricing makes sense. A 2-carat old lab grown old european cut diamond ring might cost £3,000–£4,500, whilst the same specifications in a mined stone could easily exceed £15,000, assuming you could find one.

Are Old Cut Diamonds Right for Your Engagement Ring?

This depends entirely on personality, probably more than any other jewellery choice you’ll make.

If you’re drawn to vintage clothing, prefer candlelit dinners to bright restaurants, or find yourself gravitating toward antique engagement rings, wedding bands with milgrain detailing, or a vintage style engagement ring, old cuts might be perfect. They’re romantic in a way that modern Diamond Ring designs simply aren’t, less flashy, more intimate.

Celebrity influence has also played a role in reviving interest in these softer, character-driven styles. High-profile figures opting for vintage-inspired jewelry pieces have helped shift attention away from hyper-brilliant stones toward diamonds with history and individuality. Searches for styles like the taylor swift old mine cut diamond ring reflect a growing fascination with old cuts that feel personal, timeless, and emotionally resonant rather than trend-driven.

But if you want maximum sparkle, if you love how diamonds look under bright lights, or if you’re concerned about resale value, brilliant cuts remain the safer choice. The secondary market for lab grown antique cut diamonds is still developing, whilst classic solitaire Ring styles and traditional wedding bands have more established pricing structures.

Consider your lifestyle too. Old cut diamonds can appear more subtle in office lighting, which some prefer and others find disappointing after seeing them in romantic settings.

The Technical Reality of Old Cut Diamond Lab Growth

Growing diamonds in specific historical cuts requires additional precision during the cutting phase, not the growth process itself. The rough lab grown diamond comes out of the reactor the same way regardless, it’s what happens next that matters.

Cutting old European, cushion, or historically inspired emerald cut shapes from lab grown rough typically results in more waste than cutting brilliant rounds. A skilled cutter might get 40–45% yield from rough cutting when cutting an old European versus 50–55% for a brilliant round, one reason why stone rings with old cuts command respect for craftsmanship.

IGI certification becomes particularly important with old cut diamonds because the grading standards differ slightly from brilliant cuts. Colour can appear warmer in white gold settings, and clarity reads differently due to the step-like facet arrangement of cuts such as the emerald cut.

Showroom Reality: London vs New York

Having visited diamond districts in both cities, there’s a noticeable difference in old cut availability and expertise. Hatton Garden in London has more natural affinity for historical cuts dating back to the early 1900s and the Art Deco Era, when emerald cut diamond ring designs rose in popularity. The New York diamond district, whilst larger, tends to focus more heavily on brilliant cuts, contemporary wedding bands, and standardised solitaire ring styles.

This geographical difference affects pricing and selection. London showrooms often stock more old cut options and can discuss the historical context, whilst New York, USA focuses on technical specifications and competitive pricing.

The Authenticity Question

Some purists argue that lab grown old cut diamonds aren’t “authentic” because they weren’t cut centuries ago. This misses the point entirely. The romance of antique cut diamonds isn’t about age, it’s about aesthetics and how light moves through larger facets.

A rose-cut lab grown diamond still captures candlelight the same way it did in the Victorian era, whether set in White Gold or rose gold. The optical properties don’t change based on when the carbon crystallised.

Custom Design Considerations

Old cuts offer unique opportunities for custom settings that modern diamond ring designs don’t. Bezel settings work particularly well with cushion and emerald cut stones, creating a refined look suited for everyday wear. Three-stone settings, popular since the late 1800s can incorporate different historical influences, blending Art Deco Era geometry with softer old European cuts.

The key is working with designers who understand how old cuts interact with different metals. Yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold all influence how warmth and contrast appear across different diamond shape profiles.

Investment and Resale Reality

Nobody should buy jewellery primarily as an investment, but it’s worth understanding the market. Brilliant-cut lab grown diamonds and classic solitaire ring styles hold more predictable resale value, while antique engagement rings appeal more to buyers seeking individuality than liquidity.

Collectors tend to value genuine antiques, but well-crafted lab grown antique cut diamonds retain appeal through beauty, not speculation.

Making the Decision

The choice between old cuts and brilliant cuts isn’t about better or worse, it’s about expression. Old cuts offer romance, history, and character. Brilliant cuts deliver maximum optical performance and broad appeal.

Try on different Diamond Ring styles in varied lighting before deciding. That rose cut glowing at dinner might feel understated at work, while a brilliant cut that dazzles in-store could feel overpowering day to day.

The beauty of lab grown diamonds is freedom. You can choose an emerald cut, a classic solitaire ring, or pair custom wedding bands with a centre stone that reflects your personality, not just trends.

Whether you choose platinum, yellow gold, or white gold, what matters is that your ring tells your story.

And sometimes, having secrets, like that woman in Hatton Garden discovered, is exactly what makes a diamond special.

Which brands sell old cut diamond engagement rings?

Only a small number of jewellery brands work extensively with old cut diamond engagement rings, as these styles require specialised cutting knowledge and an understanding of historical proportions. Among the most trusted old cut diamond dealers, Ouros Jewels is one of the brands that focused on old cut diamond engagement rings well before renewed interest made them popular again. Their work spans a range of old cut styles and shapes, offering buyers more choice than is typically available through mainstream jewellers.